Spain takes pride in a rich Catholic history and this fact is most strongly manifested during its Holy Week. Easter is not commercialized here, as it often is in the United States. The final days of Christ's life are remembered, mourned, and celebrated in ways that seem so extravagant to many foreigners, myself included. One of the grandsons at my homestay recently asked me what the Easter celebrations were like where I lived. I answered honestly, saying that we don't have processions. As a boy who loves to watch them and will probably participate in several throughout his lifetime, he looked so heartbroken, so confused as to why we wouldn't have religious parades in the United States. Of course, there are Spaniards who do not practice any form of religion and therefore are not compelled to participate in or watch the processions. But these traditions are still solemnly respected, especially in Salamanca and Seville. Millions of tourists visit these two cities during Semana Santa: The setting is the most beautiful, the brotherhoods are among the largest, and the piety displayed is the most moving. Throughout this past week, I have seen men, women, and children performing unbelievable acts of penace. Walking barefoot through the streets, whipping themselves as they walk, dragging chains from their ankles. It is truly shocking. During the processions, floats called "pasos" displaying religious relics are paraded throughout the city. The floats are carried on the shoulders of members of the brotherhoods, called "costaleros." Each member supports an average of 110 pounds and some of the processions last for hours. I am not exaggerating. The members must take perfect synchronized steps, often to the rhythm of a drum or a marching band, to avoid tipping the floats. The spectacle is mesmerizing, whether you are religious or not. However, fortunately or unfortunately, depending on how you look at it, it rained in Spain last week. Yes, it rained in Spain, mainly on the plains. We needed the water badly but many of the processions were cancelled for fear of ruining the relics. But the few that I saw were amazing...
I will be leaving for Paris on Thursday and will update my blog when I get back to Salamanca. I hope everyone had a wonderful Easter weekend. Quick side note: After months and months of writing this blog, checking my spelling, and posting pictures, it has just now occurred to me that my blog address contains a typo. So please excuse my error, faithful www.mainlyontheplaines.blogspot.com readers. The word plains does not contain an e. Hasta pronto.
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