It's ch-ch-chilly!

It is cold.  Very cold.  Winter in Salamanca is a little gloomy.  The fog hasn't lifted for a week or more.  But la gente still go out for a walk almost every day here...all bundled up, even the little kids.  The Christmas season is starting to come to life in the city.  All of the store windows are decorated for the holidays and the Christmas lights are hung across the streets.  There are people roasting chestnuts over an open fire on the corner of Gran Via and San Justo...just like in the song.  I love Salamanca.  But I am so excited to be home for Christmas.  It makes me smile just thinking of being home.  I cannot believe how few days I have until then!  It's incredible.  On Thursday, I'll be on my way to Prague with a few girl friends.  I've heard that the city is beautiful at this time of year.  We're staying there until Tuesday so we will have four full days in Prague.  But it is going to be even colder there!  That's okay.  It reminds me of home...winter in Illinois or Iowa means cold, really cold.  And snow.  Salamanca doesn't get very much snow and I have yet to see one white flake here.  I will write a blog post when I get home from the Czech Republic...and, as crazy as it sounds, I will be home about a week from then.  December 16th.  Can't wait to see all of you!  Espero que vosotros disfrutéis en el espíritu de Navidad.  Un beso.             

Día de Acción de Gracias

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone back home in the States!

I'm thankful for...

• my folks.  I love them more than I will ever be able to describe.  They have given me all of the opportunities in the world and have supported me through all of the good times and the bad times.  I have been blessed with parents that love and respect eachother and I hope I am lucky enough to have a relationship like their's some day.  I love you both so much, Mom and Dad.  Happy Anniversary.   
• the opportunity to study abroad in Salamanca...This has been a life-changing experience and I wouldn't trade it for anything.  As hard or frustrating as it gets at times, it's worth it. 
• my best friend, Demi.  I met her on my first day at Northern and we've been friends since.  I don't know what I'd do without her. 
• all of my family in Iowa, Ohio, Wisconsin, and Texas.  I miss you all and I'll be seeing you soon.
• having time to figure out what I really want in my life.  Sometimes I just go through the motions day to day.  But here, I've had time to myself to realize what is most important for me.  I've never felt more sure of myself.  And I know that I needed a change of pace and a change of scenery to come to those conclusions.  
• making mistakes.  The bad decisions, the failed attempts, and the relationships that don't last...those make you appreciate the good decisions, the achievements, and the relationships you have.   
• my Spanish family.  I'm so happy that I was placed with them and even happier that I am living with them next semester too. 
• my roomie, Meredith!  "...Cuz wur frum Amurica..."
• the days that pass by slowly...the days that are so sweet and full of life that you want to savor them forever. 
• tortilla española.  Enough said. 
• modern technology.  Without Facebook, Skype, and email, I would feel a lot farther a way from all of you back home.
• days without modern technology.  Sometimes, it feels so good to completely disconnect.  No cell phone.  No computer.  No television.
• ketchup.  Seriously.  I really miss it. 
• so many things...Happy Thanksgiving.

Un fuerte abrazo.

Salam aleikum...Aleikum salam

Well, I made it home safely from Morocco.  It was an unforgettable experience to say the least.  I am so happy that I went with AIFS because I don't think I ever would have gone on a trip to a third world country on my own.  I don't even know how to begin to describe the places I saw, the people I met, and the things I did.  I guess I'll start chronologically.  We left at 5:30 in the morning on Thursday and caught our flight to Marrakech from Madrid.  I am plagued with the inability to sleep on busses and planes so I was pretty tired once we arrived in Marrakech.  We checked into our hotel and immediately left for a tour of the city.  Our guide was great and was with us every day.  During that first day, she took us to visit the royal cemetery and palace.  Almost twenty of my fellow AIFS-ers and I walked through the famous Plaza de Djemaa el Fna, watching the snake charmers perform, listening to people bargain for hand-made goods, and drinking the most delicious orange juice I have ever tasted.  It overwhelmed my senses...the vibrant colors of the pottery, the scent of unknown spices, the languages being spoken, the taste of that fresh orange juice.  It is nearly indescribable.  All of those wonderful things conceal the fact that many people live in utter poverty.  It can be a really sad place if you let it be.  But it is beautiful if you look past the women begging on the streets, the children working in the shops, and the abundance of homeless animals in the parks and alleyways.  Our second day in Morocco was spent in the coastal city of Essaouira.  During the approximately two-hour journey to Essaouira, our caravan made several stops.  We stopped to ride camels, watch the traditional production of argan oil, and see goats climbing trees.  Yes...goats climbing trees.  I can't believe all of the things we saw on this excursion.  They were experiences I couldn't have had anywhere else in the world.

A bunch of my girl friends and I got henna tattoos.  The following day, while walking through the souks at the market place, people were calling us by name because the woman had written our names in Arabic in the henna tattoo.  It was a little startling at first but we got used to it.  Even the waiters at our hotel could read our names perfectly.  In Arabic, every sound and letter is pronounced.  For this reason, Arab people are very skilled with languages.  They speak Arabic, French, Spanish, and a little English too.  As interesting as that is, it also means that while we were in Morocco, we were addressed in a very derogatory manner...especially us girls.  The Moroccan men definitely know how to fluster foreign women.  The scary thing was that we knew that they would never address a woman of their own nationality in that way...they were just able to single us out automatically.  As much as I enjoyed this cultural experience, I was extremely anxious and nervous throughout the trip.  It's very difficult for me to put into words the way we felt while in Morocco.  It was wonderful and a little terrifying all at the same time.  I don't know if I would ever want to go back to Morocco, but I'm so happy that I went this past weekend.  After being there, Spain seems so much more like the United States.  Visiting Marrakech and Essaouira was like stepping back in time.  Many people there live in mud houses with no electricity and no running water.  Those who live outside the cities still farm using out-of-date methods.  Over half of the population lives in economic or government housing.  Had I not been there, I could never have imagined what a place such as Morocco is like.  It is inexplicable.  

Arabic Phrases:
Salam Aleikum is a traditional greeting.
Saying Shokran while touching your heart with the right hand means Thank You.
Ya La means Let's Go.               

New photos are up on Facebook!  Have a wonderful Thanksgiving everyone.  Besos y abrazos.

¡Arriba, abajo, al centro, adentro!

I am not a wine connoisseur.  I don't think I ever will be.  Many people have the impression that Spaniards drink wine with lunch and dinner every day.  That is not the case in our house.  Angelita and Fabi never drink wine with meals.  But yesterday, I got an education in wine-making and wine-tasting.  A large group of international students took a day-trip to the towns of Toro and Zamora to visit two local wineries.  The first winery we visited was a family business and you could tell.  Everything they did to make their wine was authentic and small-scale.  The second winery was industrial and we definitely noticed.  The winery was a massive complex that included the vineyard, a restaurant, the wine-making facilities, a ballroom, and a castle-turned-hotel where you can wine and dine your sweetheart for the modest price of 250 euros a night.

 

The wine was good.  The conversations were great.  After visiting the vineyards, we were taken to an underground wine cellar for dinner.  The cellar was converted into a restaurant that specializes in grilled meats and oddly-named shots.  I won't repeat the names of the drinks in this blog post but I'm sure you all can imagine what I'm referring to.  The owner of the restuarant made friends with our table, probably because we were all girls.  He proceded to tell us dirty jokes, all the while smiling with his toothless grin.  Having dinner in that restaurant was an unforgettable experience, to say the least.

 

The pictures from this weekend are on Facebook!  They are in the "Toro and Zamora" album.  On another note, I leave for Morocco in four days!  I'm a little nervous but I can't wait!  I've said it so many times...but I can't believe how fast time is going by.  I'll be talking to you all again soon.  Look for another blog post about Morocco in a week or so!  Besos y abrazos. 

Manners

Apparently, I eat like an American.  Go figure.  I take the fork in my left hand, hold it in my fist, stick it in the middle of whatever I'm eating, and cut the entire thing with the knife in my right hand, set the knife down, switch the fork from my left hand to my right, re-stick it into one of the pieces I have just cut, and put it in my mouth.  That's a no-no in Spain.  I had a lesson in Spanish manners today during lunch.  Angelita didn't scold me...she knows that we eat differently in the United States.  And I certainly realize that not every American eats the same way I do...but I've never been taught anything different.  I am going to try to pay attention to the way I eat from now on.  I cannot even explain correct European table manners but I hope that I improve a little bit over time. 

Si es feo, es feo...

I have just had a very interesting conversation with my entire Spanish family...Fabi, Angelita, and Javier.  During dinner, we were talking about the debate between Rubalcaba and Rajoy, the two leading candidates of the presidential election in Spain.  You would think that we would talk about policy or political platforms.  No.  We talked about how attractive the candidates were...or were not.  This is a daily occurrence in our house.  If we are watching a movie, a series, or the nightly news, Angelita routinely comments on how attractive someone is.  She exclaims, "¡Qué feo!" or "¡Qué guapo!" nearly every day.  It's not that Spaniards are rude or politically incorrect.  They simply think that if you're unattractive, you're unattractive.  There is nothing you can do about it.  And if you are attractive, well, good for you.  It is nothing to be so preoccupied about...according to our family.  I still cannot bring myself to exclaim, "¡Qué feo!" when I see someone less attractive than others.  That's probably a good thing since at some point I'll be back in the States, and if I called someone ugly, I'd get some ugly looks of my own.  Pero...si es feo, es feo...y hay nada que puede hacer.  

Happy November 11th, 2011, everyone.  Make a wish tonight! 

 

Student Journal Rough Draft

On the AIFS website, students have submitted journal entries about their experiences abroad.  They're meant to serve as a reference for future study abroad students.  I remember reading those earlier this year when I was preparing to come to Salamanca.  I emailed our Resident Director about submitting an entry and she told me to go for it.  So here is what I've written so far.  I've pulled some of the ideas and material from previous blog posts so it might sound familiar.  I would love any feedback!  Un fuerte abrazo.

5 November 2011

It just dawned on me that I have been living in Salamanca, Spain for over two months.  It still does not seem real.  I walk through these streets every single day and it still hasn’t sunk in that I live here.  I live here.  How lucky am I?  I have never experienced that single moment of realization.  I have never had that epiphany.  Salamanca has gradually settled into my mind and body.  I love feeling the warm Spanish sun on my skin and the cool breeze in my hair.  I love hearing my Spanish family speaking to each other and Salmantinos conversing at a side street café.  Every day, I cross Paseo Canalejas, take Calle del Rosario to Gran Via, turn left onto San Justo and approach the Plaza Mayor.  I could take a more efficient route to class but I love walking this way.  It’s not that I don’t know another way to get to my classes in San Boal.  I just love seeing the Plaza in the glow of early morning.  I linger there for a moment, breathe slowly, and appreciate the amazing opportunity I have been given.  I have been dreaming of studying abroad for years.  And it was always Spain.  Spain was the only country in which I wanted to study.  Now I can’t imagine being in a city other than Salamanca.  It has surpassed my expectations and I know that it will be heart-wrenching to leave this place.  A few days ago, I received an email confirming my flight arrangements back to the States in December.  It feels too soon.  The time has flown by so quickly for all of us here.  El tiempo vuela.  Some people are ready to go home.  Some people never want to leave.  I’m somewhere in the middle.  I play this scenario over and over in my head:  It’s December 16^th, I haven’t slept because last night was Nochevieja Universitaria, and my plane is landing in Chicago.  All I can think about is seeing my folks and my best friend.  I picture myself hugging each of them for a solid five minutes.  I’m excited to go home because I know that I’ll be coming back for the spring semester.  There was never a doubt that I wanted to be an academic-year student with AIFS in Salamanca.  And I am fortunate enough to have supportive parents who have always encouraged me to do this.  What scares me is that the epiphany, that single moment of realization, won’t hit me until I’m leaving Salamanca next June.  I try not to take this place for granted.  Sometimes that’s hard because I feel so settled here.  It’s comfortable.  It’s normal.  I have a routine.  I have to remind myself that yes, I do live here and it is the best thing I ever could have done for myself.  When I think about that, my breath catches in my throat and I smile because I know how incredible this experience is and I know that it will influence the rest of my life.  I’ve been able to see so many beautiful places and have innumerable adventures in Europe, but I am always relieved to see the beautiful skyline of Salamanca in the distance.  It feels like coming home.  Salamanca will always have a grip on my soul and it will always be here to come back to.  Tranquila.  Lo esencial es invisible a los ojos.                      

El Mariquelo

I hope everyone had a wonderfully creepy Halloween back home.  In Spain, we're celebrating Día de Todos Los Santos today.  Almost every store, restaurant, and cafe across Spain is closed today in honor of this Catholic holiday.  In Spain, Día de Todos Los Santos is very melancholic.  It is a day to remember loved ones who have passed away.  Most families visit the cemeteries of their ancestors and place flowers around the tombs.  A traditional sweet, called buñuelo de viento, is usually prepared as well.  Buñuelos are like a cream puff, but are fried rather than baked.  They are delicious.  Angelita made a few dozen this past weekend and they were devoured by Monday night.  In Salamanca, another tradition accompanies Día de Todos Los Santos.  On October 31st, a man named Angel Rufino or "El Mariquelo" scales the tallest bell tower of the New Cathedral.  This custom began in the eighteenth century to commemorate the miracle of All Saints Day in 1755.  On that day, an earthquake leveled Lisbon and the trembling was felt as far as Salamanca.  The faithful parishioners took refuge in the New Cathedral and were saved from the devastation of the earthquake.  "El Mariquelo" climbs the tower and rings the bell at high noon every year.  It was an amazing spectacle to witness.  My friend Isabelle and I went after class to watch this event with thousands of Salmantinos.  Rua Mayor was flooded with people waiting in anticipation for the clock to strike noon.  It is hard to fathom that the beautiful New Cathedral of Salamanca might not exist today because of that earthquake.  It is a fundamental part of the Salmantine cityscape and I can't imagine what this place would be like without it.  But it was saved, along with the parishioners, and the tradition of "El Mariquelo" has been a part of this culture ever since.