Tuesday, November 1, 2011

El Mariquelo

I hope everyone had a wonderfully creepy Halloween back home.  In Spain, we're celebrating Día de Todos Los Santos today.  Almost every store, restaurant, and cafe across Spain is closed today in honor of this Catholic holiday.  In Spain, Día de Todos Los Santos is very melancholic.  It is a day to remember loved ones who have passed away.  Most families visit the cemeteries of their ancestors and place flowers around the tombs.  A traditional sweet, called buñuelo de viento, is usually prepared as well.  Buñuelos are like a cream puff, but are fried rather than baked.  They are delicious.  Angelita made a few dozen this past weekend and they were devoured by Monday night.  In Salamanca, another tradition accompanies Día de Todos Los Santos.  On October 31st, a man named Angel Rufino or "El Mariquelo" scales the tallest bell tower of the New Cathedral.  This custom began in the eighteenth century to commemorate the miracle of All Saints Day in 1755.  On that day, an earthquake leveled Lisbon and the trembling was felt as far as Salamanca.  The faithful parishioners took refuge in the New Cathedral and were saved from the devastation of the earthquake.  "El Mariquelo" climbs the tower and rings the bell at high noon every year.  It was an amazing spectacle to witness.  My friend Isabelle and I went after class to watch this event with thousands of Salmantinos.  Rua Mayor was flooded with people waiting in anticipation for the clock to strike noon.  It is hard to fathom that the beautiful New Cathedral of Salamanca might not exist today because of that earthquake.  It is a fundamental part of the Salmantine cityscape and I can't imagine what this place would be like without it.  But it was saved, along with the parishioners, and the tradition of "El Mariquelo" has been a part of this culture ever since.          

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