Last Post of the Semester...

I have five days left in Salamanca.  My first semester here is coming to an end.  The time has gone by faster than I ever could have imagined.  I haven't been counting down the days until I have to pack up my things, say good-bye to some of my friends, and get on a plane to London and then Chicago.  But now counting down the days is hard to resist.  I love everything about this place...the people, the beauty, the food.  It has already been the experience of a lifetime.  In the AIFS office, Gaye has a list of twenty-five things to do in Salamanca.  I am proud to say that I have done about twenty-two of them.   I know that my time abroad will be a continuous influence on my life.  I am elated to have more time here next semester.

Plaza Mayor, Thursday, December 8th, 6:30 in the afternoon. 

After being in Prague for so many days, I have enjoyed just being home.  This weekend has been pretty uneventful, with the exception of the Real Madrid-FC Barcelona soccer game last night.  Our family had a pool for the game.  The winner would have received a grand total of eight euros but none of us guessed the correct result of the game.  I love the little things that I have done here.  Betting on a soccer game, discovering a hidden spot, watching the lights turn on in the Plaza Mayor...that is why I love this place so much.  Salamanca will always feel like a second home.  That being said, my eyes tear up every time I think about seeing my folks in the airport this coming Friday.  I love being home.  I am so excited to see our house decorated for Christmas.  When I arrived in Madrid after my trip this past weekend, I saw families greeting their loved ones at the airport.  I couldn't help but think of home and how it will feel walking through the international arrivals gate at O'Hare.  It will be hard to focus, but today I have a lot of studying to do.  Our final exams are this week.  I have already started packing up my things to come home.  AIFS is hosting a farewell dinner for all of us on Wednesday.  Thursday evening, Salamanca celebrates Nochevieja Universitaria.  Students from all over Spain come to the Plaza Mayor to have a premature New Year's Eve party before everyone leaves for vacation.  This year, it just so happens to be the night before I come home.  In Spain, as a New Year's Eve tradition, you are supposed to eat twelve grapes, one with each strike of the clock.  For the students' New Year's Eve, we eat twelve gummy bears.  Honestly, it is the perfect way to end the semester.  And that just leaves Friday.  I have had that date stuck in my head for the past three and a half months:  Friday, December 16th.  It is finally here.  I cannot wait to see my family and friends.  Until then, besos y abrazos.     

Prague

I am finally settled back into my life in Salamanca after six days in the City of Spires.  Prague was absolutely breathtaking.  I traveled there with three other girls from AIFS and we met up with a tour company called Weekend Student Adventures.  I met students from all over the United States who were studying in London, Ireland, and Spain.  For the first four days of the trip, the length of the WSA tour, we had a local Czech tour guide who showed us around the city.  On Friday, we woke up bright and early for a walking tour of Prague, Praga, Praha, or however you want to call it.  It is pronounced several ways throughout Europe.  Before arriving there, I did not know what to expect of the city.  I had heard that Prague was a beautiful city and was especially popular around the holidays.  It surpassed my expectations.  Throughout the tour on Friday and Saturday, our group visited the Museum of Communism, Old Town Square, the Prague Castle, the Charles Bridge, the John Lennon Wall, Saint Vitus Cathedral, and the Lobkowicz Palace.  You may not believe me, but we actually met Prince William...of the Czech Republic, not the United Kingdom.  He is seventeen years old, very polite, and completely ordinary.  He took us on a tour of his family's palace as if we were his friends.  Of course, all of us girls were giddy when we found out that we were going to meet a prince.  But it was refreshing to realize that he is a normal kid and is so comfortable with people from all different backgrounds.  For dinner one night, our entire group attended a Medieval feast and show.  I have not laughed so hard since I've been in Europe.  We were entertained by fire breathers, belly dancers, jugglers, and knights, all while enjoying an authentic Czech meal.  I had roasted duck, cabbage, and dumplings.  It was delicious.  But, as it was a Medieval show, we had to eat with our hands.  The performers took special pride in making the guests feel right at home, whether that meant climbing over the table and sitting right next to us, holding our hands and bestowing kisses on the girls, or taking a turn on the dance floor.  Somehow, by the end of the meal, I ended up with a Czech boyfriend named Stefan.  It was difficult to leave him behind.  I'm just kidding, obviously.  It was an interesting experience to say the least and it was a meal I will never forget.  Our tour guide also took us to see the famous John Lennon Wall.  It is the only place in Prague where you can legally graffiti.  It has become a memorial to the artist but also a place to write things you can't say out loud.  It was extremely moving to read some of the inscriptions.  We all got to spray paint something on the wall.  It was a powerful feeling, taking part in something that so many people have done over the past few decades.  As amazing as all of those places were and as helpful as it was to have a local guide, my fondest memories of this trip are of the days we didn't plan.  My friends and I stayed two extra days in Prague and I'm so happy that we did.  It was so relaxing to wander through the Christmas markets, sipping hot wine, and take in the beautiful scenery.  I felt no need to have an agenda for each day.  I feel like Prague was a special place.  If you wanted to, you could do all of the typical tourist things...see all of the landmarks, visit every museum, stop to take a picture every three minutes.  But I think a city is more interesting when you partake in every moment as it happens.  Prague left a lasting impression and I only wish that everyone had the chance to visit it.          

 

It's ch-ch-chilly!

It is cold.  Very cold.  Winter in Salamanca is a little gloomy.  The fog hasn't lifted for a week or more.  But la gente still go out for a walk almost every day here...all bundled up, even the little kids.  The Christmas season is starting to come to life in the city.  All of the store windows are decorated for the holidays and the Christmas lights are hung across the streets.  There are people roasting chestnuts over an open fire on the corner of Gran Via and San Justo...just like in the song.  I love Salamanca.  But I am so excited to be home for Christmas.  It makes me smile just thinking of being home.  I cannot believe how few days I have until then!  It's incredible.  On Thursday, I'll be on my way to Prague with a few girl friends.  I've heard that the city is beautiful at this time of year.  We're staying there until Tuesday so we will have four full days in Prague.  But it is going to be even colder there!  That's okay.  It reminds me of home...winter in Illinois or Iowa means cold, really cold.  And snow.  Salamanca doesn't get very much snow and I have yet to see one white flake here.  I will write a blog post when I get home from the Czech Republic...and, as crazy as it sounds, I will be home about a week from then.  December 16th.  Can't wait to see all of you!  Espero que vosotros disfrutéis en el espíritu de Navidad.  Un beso.             

Día de Acción de Gracias

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone back home in the States!

I'm thankful for...

• my folks.  I love them more than I will ever be able to describe.  They have given me all of the opportunities in the world and have supported me through all of the good times and the bad times.  I have been blessed with parents that love and respect eachother and I hope I am lucky enough to have a relationship like their's some day.  I love you both so much, Mom and Dad.  Happy Anniversary.   
• the opportunity to study abroad in Salamanca...This has been a life-changing experience and I wouldn't trade it for anything.  As hard or frustrating as it gets at times, it's worth it. 
• my best friend, Demi.  I met her on my first day at Northern and we've been friends since.  I don't know what I'd do without her. 
• all of my family in Iowa, Ohio, Wisconsin, and Texas.  I miss you all and I'll be seeing you soon.
• having time to figure out what I really want in my life.  Sometimes I just go through the motions day to day.  But here, I've had time to myself to realize what is most important for me.  I've never felt more sure of myself.  And I know that I needed a change of pace and a change of scenery to come to those conclusions.  
• making mistakes.  The bad decisions, the failed attempts, and the relationships that don't last...those make you appreciate the good decisions, the achievements, and the relationships you have.   
• my Spanish family.  I'm so happy that I was placed with them and even happier that I am living with them next semester too. 
• my roomie, Meredith!  "...Cuz wur frum Amurica..."
• the days that pass by slowly...the days that are so sweet and full of life that you want to savor them forever. 
• tortilla española.  Enough said. 
• modern technology.  Without Facebook, Skype, and email, I would feel a lot farther a way from all of you back home.
• days without modern technology.  Sometimes, it feels so good to completely disconnect.  No cell phone.  No computer.  No television.
• ketchup.  Seriously.  I really miss it. 
• so many things...Happy Thanksgiving.

Un fuerte abrazo.

Salam aleikum...Aleikum salam

Well, I made it home safely from Morocco.  It was an unforgettable experience to say the least.  I am so happy that I went with AIFS because I don't think I ever would have gone on a trip to a third world country on my own.  I don't even know how to begin to describe the places I saw, the people I met, and the things I did.  I guess I'll start chronologically.  We left at 5:30 in the morning on Thursday and caught our flight to Marrakech from Madrid.  I am plagued with the inability to sleep on busses and planes so I was pretty tired once we arrived in Marrakech.  We checked into our hotel and immediately left for a tour of the city.  Our guide was great and was with us every day.  During that first day, she took us to visit the royal cemetery and palace.  Almost twenty of my fellow AIFS-ers and I walked through the famous Plaza de Djemaa el Fna, watching the snake charmers perform, listening to people bargain for hand-made goods, and drinking the most delicious orange juice I have ever tasted.  It overwhelmed my senses...the vibrant colors of the pottery, the scent of unknown spices, the languages being spoken, the taste of that fresh orange juice.  It is nearly indescribable.  All of those wonderful things conceal the fact that many people live in utter poverty.  It can be a really sad place if you let it be.  But it is beautiful if you look past the women begging on the streets, the children working in the shops, and the abundance of homeless animals in the parks and alleyways.  Our second day in Morocco was spent in the coastal city of Essaouira.  During the approximately two-hour journey to Essaouira, our caravan made several stops.  We stopped to ride camels, watch the traditional production of argan oil, and see goats climbing trees.  Yes...goats climbing trees.  I can't believe all of the things we saw on this excursion.  They were experiences I couldn't have had anywhere else in the world.

A bunch of my girl friends and I got henna tattoos.  The following day, while walking through the souks at the market place, people were calling us by name because the woman had written our names in Arabic in the henna tattoo.  It was a little startling at first but we got used to it.  Even the waiters at our hotel could read our names perfectly.  In Arabic, every sound and letter is pronounced.  For this reason, Arab people are very skilled with languages.  They speak Arabic, French, Spanish, and a little English too.  As interesting as that is, it also means that while we were in Morocco, we were addressed in a very derogatory manner...especially us girls.  The Moroccan men definitely know how to fluster foreign women.  The scary thing was that we knew that they would never address a woman of their own nationality in that way...they were just able to single us out automatically.  As much as I enjoyed this cultural experience, I was extremely anxious and nervous throughout the trip.  It's very difficult for me to put into words the way we felt while in Morocco.  It was wonderful and a little terrifying all at the same time.  I don't know if I would ever want to go back to Morocco, but I'm so happy that I went this past weekend.  After being there, Spain seems so much more like the United States.  Visiting Marrakech and Essaouira was like stepping back in time.  Many people there live in mud houses with no electricity and no running water.  Those who live outside the cities still farm using out-of-date methods.  Over half of the population lives in economic or government housing.  Had I not been there, I could never have imagined what a place such as Morocco is like.  It is inexplicable.  

Arabic Phrases:
Salam Aleikum is a traditional greeting.
Saying Shokran while touching your heart with the right hand means Thank You.
Ya La means Let's Go.               

New photos are up on Facebook!  Have a wonderful Thanksgiving everyone.  Besos y abrazos.

¡Arriba, abajo, al centro, adentro!

I am not a wine connoisseur.  I don't think I ever will be.  Many people have the impression that Spaniards drink wine with lunch and dinner every day.  That is not the case in our house.  Angelita and Fabi never drink wine with meals.  But yesterday, I got an education in wine-making and wine-tasting.  A large group of international students took a day-trip to the towns of Toro and Zamora to visit two local wineries.  The first winery we visited was a family business and you could tell.  Everything they did to make their wine was authentic and small-scale.  The second winery was industrial and we definitely noticed.  The winery was a massive complex that included the vineyard, a restaurant, the wine-making facilities, a ballroom, and a castle-turned-hotel where you can wine and dine your sweetheart for the modest price of 250 euros a night.

 

The wine was good.  The conversations were great.  After visiting the vineyards, we were taken to an underground wine cellar for dinner.  The cellar was converted into a restaurant that specializes in grilled meats and oddly-named shots.  I won't repeat the names of the drinks in this blog post but I'm sure you all can imagine what I'm referring to.  The owner of the restuarant made friends with our table, probably because we were all girls.  He proceded to tell us dirty jokes, all the while smiling with his toothless grin.  Having dinner in that restaurant was an unforgettable experience, to say the least.

 

The pictures from this weekend are on Facebook!  They are in the "Toro and Zamora" album.  On another note, I leave for Morocco in four days!  I'm a little nervous but I can't wait!  I've said it so many times...but I can't believe how fast time is going by.  I'll be talking to you all again soon.  Look for another blog post about Morocco in a week or so!  Besos y abrazos. 

Manners

Apparently, I eat like an American.  Go figure.  I take the fork in my left hand, hold it in my fist, stick it in the middle of whatever I'm eating, and cut the entire thing with the knife in my right hand, set the knife down, switch the fork from my left hand to my right, re-stick it into one of the pieces I have just cut, and put it in my mouth.  That's a no-no in Spain.  I had a lesson in Spanish manners today during lunch.  Angelita didn't scold me...she knows that we eat differently in the United States.  And I certainly realize that not every American eats the same way I do...but I've never been taught anything different.  I am going to try to pay attention to the way I eat from now on.  I cannot even explain correct European table manners but I hope that I improve a little bit over time. 

Si es feo, es feo...

I have just had a very interesting conversation with my entire Spanish family...Fabi, Angelita, and Javier.  During dinner, we were talking about the debate between Rubalcaba and Rajoy, the two leading candidates of the presidential election in Spain.  You would think that we would talk about policy or political platforms.  No.  We talked about how attractive the candidates were...or were not.  This is a daily occurrence in our house.  If we are watching a movie, a series, or the nightly news, Angelita routinely comments on how attractive someone is.  She exclaims, "¡Qué feo!" or "¡Qué guapo!" nearly every day.  It's not that Spaniards are rude or politically incorrect.  They simply think that if you're unattractive, you're unattractive.  There is nothing you can do about it.  And if you are attractive, well, good for you.  It is nothing to be so preoccupied about...according to our family.  I still cannot bring myself to exclaim, "¡Qué feo!" when I see someone less attractive than others.  That's probably a good thing since at some point I'll be back in the States, and if I called someone ugly, I'd get some ugly looks of my own.  Pero...si es feo, es feo...y hay nada que puede hacer.  

Happy November 11th, 2011, everyone.  Make a wish tonight! 

 

Student Journal Rough Draft

On the AIFS website, students have submitted journal entries about their experiences abroad.  They're meant to serve as a reference for future study abroad students.  I remember reading those earlier this year when I was preparing to come to Salamanca.  I emailed our Resident Director about submitting an entry and she told me to go for it.  So here is what I've written so far.  I've pulled some of the ideas and material from previous blog posts so it might sound familiar.  I would love any feedback!  Un fuerte abrazo.

5 November 2011

It just dawned on me that I have been living in Salamanca, Spain for over two months.  It still does not seem real.  I walk through these streets every single day and it still hasn’t sunk in that I live here.  I live here.  How lucky am I?  I have never experienced that single moment of realization.  I have never had that epiphany.  Salamanca has gradually settled into my mind and body.  I love feeling the warm Spanish sun on my skin and the cool breeze in my hair.  I love hearing my Spanish family speaking to each other and Salmantinos conversing at a side street café.  Every day, I cross Paseo Canalejas, take Calle del Rosario to Gran Via, turn left onto San Justo and approach the Plaza Mayor.  I could take a more efficient route to class but I love walking this way.  It’s not that I don’t know another way to get to my classes in San Boal.  I just love seeing the Plaza in the glow of early morning.  I linger there for a moment, breathe slowly, and appreciate the amazing opportunity I have been given.  I have been dreaming of studying abroad for years.  And it was always Spain.  Spain was the only country in which I wanted to study.  Now I can’t imagine being in a city other than Salamanca.  It has surpassed my expectations and I know that it will be heart-wrenching to leave this place.  A few days ago, I received an email confirming my flight arrangements back to the States in December.  It feels too soon.  The time has flown by so quickly for all of us here.  El tiempo vuela.  Some people are ready to go home.  Some people never want to leave.  I’m somewhere in the middle.  I play this scenario over and over in my head:  It’s December 16^th, I haven’t slept because last night was Nochevieja Universitaria, and my plane is landing in Chicago.  All I can think about is seeing my folks and my best friend.  I picture myself hugging each of them for a solid five minutes.  I’m excited to go home because I know that I’ll be coming back for the spring semester.  There was never a doubt that I wanted to be an academic-year student with AIFS in Salamanca.  And I am fortunate enough to have supportive parents who have always encouraged me to do this.  What scares me is that the epiphany, that single moment of realization, won’t hit me until I’m leaving Salamanca next June.  I try not to take this place for granted.  Sometimes that’s hard because I feel so settled here.  It’s comfortable.  It’s normal.  I have a routine.  I have to remind myself that yes, I do live here and it is the best thing I ever could have done for myself.  When I think about that, my breath catches in my throat and I smile because I know how incredible this experience is and I know that it will influence the rest of my life.  I’ve been able to see so many beautiful places and have innumerable adventures in Europe, but I am always relieved to see the beautiful skyline of Salamanca in the distance.  It feels like coming home.  Salamanca will always have a grip on my soul and it will always be here to come back to.  Tranquila.  Lo esencial es invisible a los ojos.                      

El Mariquelo

I hope everyone had a wonderfully creepy Halloween back home.  In Spain, we're celebrating Día de Todos Los Santos today.  Almost every store, restaurant, and cafe across Spain is closed today in honor of this Catholic holiday.  In Spain, Día de Todos Los Santos is very melancholic.  It is a day to remember loved ones who have passed away.  Most families visit the cemeteries of their ancestors and place flowers around the tombs.  A traditional sweet, called buñuelo de viento, is usually prepared as well.  Buñuelos are like a cream puff, but are fried rather than baked.  They are delicious.  Angelita made a few dozen this past weekend and they were devoured by Monday night.  In Salamanca, another tradition accompanies Día de Todos Los Santos.  On October 31st, a man named Angel Rufino or "El Mariquelo" scales the tallest bell tower of the New Cathedral.  This custom began in the eighteenth century to commemorate the miracle of All Saints Day in 1755.  On that day, an earthquake leveled Lisbon and the trembling was felt as far as Salamanca.  The faithful parishioners took refuge in the New Cathedral and were saved from the devastation of the earthquake.  "El Mariquelo" climbs the tower and rings the bell at high noon every year.  It was an amazing spectacle to witness.  My friend Isabelle and I went after class to watch this event with thousands of Salmantinos.  Rua Mayor was flooded with people waiting in anticipation for the clock to strike noon.  It is hard to fathom that the beautiful New Cathedral of Salamanca might not exist today because of that earthquake.  It is a fundamental part of the Salmantine cityscape and I can't imagine what this place would be like without it.  But it was saved, along with the parishioners, and the tradition of "El Mariquelo" has been a part of this culture ever since.          

Culture Lesson

I'm sorry that it has been a while since my last post.  I was being honest when I said that I didn't have anything too exciting coming up.  These days, I spend a lot of time studying.  We're coming up on midterms pretty quickly and every one is feeling the crunch.  A lot of my friends have said the same thing.  For some of us, it feels like we are in a lull or have hit a wall.  Several people are ready to go home, despite the fact that they have enjoyed their time here immensely, while others are panicking that we only have a month and a half left in the semester.  I'm sort of in the middle.  I think about December 16th a lot...probably more than I should.  But I'm not really in a panic about leaving because I'll be back in Salamanca in the Spring.  I have enjoyed my time here so much and I feel so lucky and appreciative to be able to stay for the whole year.  Last night, I met up with three girl friends, Julia, Laura, and Hilke.  We went to a concert honoring the life and work of Federico García Lorca, a Spanish poet from the autonomous community of Andalucia.  It was a small orchestral ensemble comprised of seven or eight musicians.  Interspersed throughout the concert, selections of Lorca's poetry were read.  I have studied his poetry and plays in previous classes so the concert was very interesting to me.  We are also studying Lorca in my Spanish Literature class now.  As I said, my classes are keeping me busy.  I love the literature class.  I enjoy breaking down the poetry verse by verse and attempting to understand what the poet has written.  But reading the poetry or prose for the sheer beauty of the words is enjoyable as well, even if you don't understand what is being said.  I'm also taking Business Spanish.  We focus on vocabulary in that class and have already learned a lot about the economic situation in Spain.  I think it will be extremely useful in a professional setting.  My third class is focused on grammar.  It's not my favorite but it is definitely filling in the holes left by previous Spanish classes that I've taken at home.  By far, my favorite class is Phonetics.  Our professor, Carlos, always tells us that our classroom is not a classroom at all.  Rather, it is a gymnasium for words.  In that class, we practice intonation and pronunciation of Castellano, the form of Spanish spoken in Castilla y Leon.  Castellano is said to be the purest form of the Spanish language, but there are regional differences all throughout Spain.  In Barcelona, the people speak Catalan which is a combination of French and Spanish.  In cities such as Granada and Seville in Andalucia, Spaniards tend to cut off the ends of words, making it difficult to understand.  And in the autonomous community of País Vasco the language is Euskera, which I don't even know how to explain.  Spain is very regional.  You won't hear someone say, "Soy de España."  Instead, people identify with the autonomous community in which they live.  There are seventeen autonomous communities in Spain and each of them is unique.  A Spanish autonomous community is comparable to a state in the United States.  So, imagine that each of our fifty states spoke a different dialect and celebrated different holidays.  Obviously, there are various accents throughout the United States, but the official language is the same.  That is not necessarily the case in Spain.  Anyway, let's move on from the culture lesson.  Today it is very foggy and rainy so I'm not sure what I'll end up doing.  A lot of my friends are gone on trips this weekend so I might just stay in and get some studying done.  Two weeks from today, I will be with a with a bunch of friends on a day-trip to Zamora and Toro to tour local wineries.  I'm so excited!  We get to taste regional wine and have an authentic dinner in an old wine cellar.  The trip is organized for international students and has been very popular with AIFS students in the past.  Less than a week after that, I'll be in Morocco!  Whoa.  I just have to get through midterms first.  I hope everyone is doing well back home and has a spooky Halloween weekend.  Hasta pronto.                 

Lo esencial es invisible a los ojos...

It is a great feeling knowing that you belong somewhere.  It doesn't matter where you are in the world...feeling that you have friends to depend on, a place to come home to, and something to look forward to everyday is so comforting.  I love to walk through the streets of Salamanca and take in the ambiance.  The voices I hear, the scents I breathe in, and the beauty I see have become a part of me.  They permeate my soul.  I wish everyone could visit this place.  There is something special about it.  I've heard that studying abroad changes you.  I believe it.  How could you experience this culture and not be changed for the better?  Last week, a friend of mine asked me what has been the best part of my time in Spain.  I told Ben, "Honestly, living with my Spanish family has been the most rewarding part."  I meant it.  I love spending time with Angelita, Fabi, and Javier, just like I love to be with my family at home.  They know me so well already.  We've gotten to the point where we can tease and joke with each other.  Living in Spain is incredible.  But having a family like ours is icing on the cake.  This morning I met up with my friend Julia and two Spanish acquaintances for coffee.  I was so nervous to meet up for an intercambio.  For an hour or so, all four of us talked in Spanish.  Then we switched to English so that they could practice too.  It went so well!  It's a beautiful day here so I took my time walking home after our intercambio.  Sometimes I don't even realize it, but I can understand what is being said around me.  I can pick up bits and pieces of conversations that I hear as I pass by groups of people.  I'm learning without even thinking about it.  It is so empowering.  I cannot believe how much I've already learned here.  And I am not just referring to the language.  I've learned so much about the people here and the way they live their lives.  I've learned about what Spaniards think of Americans and the rest of the world.  I've learned more about myself and what I'm capable of.  Our Resident Director always tells us, "You are the one who looks different, speaks a different language, and eats different food.  You are the one who has to adjust.  Spain isn't going to change just for you."  The transformation is amazing.  As far as my daily life goes, nothing very exciting has happened this week.  I went to see a Spanish movie with some girl friends on Wednesday.  On Thursday, Cursos Internacionales offered a free movie for foreign students so I went to see it with Tristan and Amanda.  I study for an hour or so every day and I try to do a little bit of exercise as well.  I've been pretty good about going for a run every weekend that we're home.  Tonight I'm going out for drinks and dancing with a bunch of students from AIFS.  I'm really looking forward to it!  I'll write another blog post within a week or so.  Until then, muchos besos.

What is essential is invisible to the eyes...

  

                        

Madrid and...Holy Toledo!

This past weekend, AIFS took us on an overnight excursion to Toledo and Madrid in central Spain.  We left Saturday morning for Toledo, a city famous for El Greco, Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, and its three cultures:  Christian, Islamic, and Hebrew.  Toledo is home to eighty churches.  Yes, that is where the expression "Holy Toledo!" comes from.  We took a walking tour of this lovely city with a professional guide who lives in Toledo.  We visited La Iglesia de Santo Tomé, which houses the most well-known of El Greco's paintings, El Entierro del Conde de Orgaz.  It's one thing to study a painting in an art history class.  It is completely different to witness the unadulterated, pristine composition with your own eyes.  It was incredible. 

I wish we could have had more time in Toledo, but after a few short hours we hopped back on the bus.  We arrived in Madrid that afternoon and a few friends and I took the metro directly to the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia to see one of Picasso's most celebrated paintings, Guernica.  We spent a few hours wandering through the museum and then took the metro back to the hotel.  While walking from the station to our hotel, we decided to stop for a quick bite and ended up running into a group of friends.  We stayed at a sidewalk bar for a couple of hours, eating pizza and watching the FC Barcelona soccer game.  It was such a fun night; joking, laughing, and realizing that we are already half-way through the Fall semester.  On Sunday morning, bright and early, we checked out of our hotel and left for a tour of Madrid.  This city reminded me a lot of Chicago.  It is incredibly big, yet so beautiful.  We ended our tour at the Museo del Prado.  The Prado is one of the most visited museums in the world and houses such paintings as Las Meninas, La Maja Desnuda, and El Caballero de la Mano en el Pecho.  I cannot believe how lucky I have been to see all of the things I've seen since arriving in Spain.  Some people dream of seeing these paintings but never have the opportunity to examine them in person.  As enjoyable as the weekend was, I felt so relieved when I saw the beautifully illuminated Salamanca skyline last night...as always.  I can't imagine how I will feel when I land in Chicago in December.  Returning home always feels right, whether home is DeKalb, Illinois, Ventura, Iowa, or Salamanca, Castilla y León.   

Figuring it out...

Over the past couple of days, I've had a lot of time to think:  Time to consider why I am here, time to appreciate everything I have experienced, time to determine what is really important in life.  When I was preparing to come to Spain, I saw it as an opportunity to improve my verbal and written Spanish.  I realize now that it is so much more than that.  I'm here to understand a culture completely different from my own.  I'm here to figure out who I am as an individual.  I'm here to visualize everything I am capable of.  This all probably sounds so starry-eyed and innocent.  But being here has really made me consider everything I've done in my life up to this point and everything that I still want to accomplish.  I feel like I'm in a good state of mind.  I feel like I finally know what I want for myself in the future.  At the same time though, I'm not worrying about the future like I used to.  What's the point?  I'm learning to trust that life will continue on the way that it is meant to.  Whether you believe in fate, the master plan of one deity or another, coincidence...it doesn't really matter in the end.  Everything happens for a reason.  Happiness isn't something that you can search for.  If you look for it, you'll never find it all.  But if you live your life, you'll stumble upon happiness and you can embrace it fully.       

The horses are comin'...So you better run...

I spent the morning and early afternoon riding horses with eight of my friends.  It has been years since I've been on a horse, but it felt just the same.  I know my folks are going to get jealous as they read this.  Today is a national holiday in Spain.  We are celebrating the Virgen de Pilar, the patron saint of La Guardia Civil.  Since the Universidad de Salamanca was closed, we took advantage of our free day and headed out into the countryside.  At the ranch, we were given brief lessons on how to direct and control the horses.  We rode for about an hour and a half along the river and through the forests.  My horse and I were the first in line behind our guide, so for most of the ride I conversed with Jose about Spanish and American history and where I was from.  He said that Iowa was a very beautifully named state.  Our guide was so friendly and helpful.  He even complemented me on my riding!  My horse for the afternoon was a sweetheart, but a little mischievous as well.  The nine of us had so much fun and it was an experience I will never forget.  It has been a beautiful Autumn day and I'm so happy I've spent most of it in the Spanish terrain, enjoying the peace and quiet.     

Stunning Segovia...

Yesterday, I fell in love.  AIFS took us to the beautiful city of Segovia and it was like a fairytale unfolding in front of me.  Every corner we rounded was a turn of the page.  Segovia is enchanting.  The first thing you see as you enter the city is the soaring Roman aqueduct that has been standing for over two thousand years without a drop of mortar between its granite stones.  The aqueduct was used to bring water to the city from the mountains more than fifteen kilometers away. 

Upon arriving in Segovia, we were taken on a professional tour of the city.  We walked along the cobblestone streets, stopping every now and then to listen to the history of various monuments.  Our final destination was the Alcazar of Segovia.  Situated at the highest point of the city, the Alcazar acted as a fortress protecting Segovia.  The original palace was destroyed in the mid-nineteenth century and has been reconstructed since.  What we saw yesterday was the beautifully remastered estate that inspired the castle in Walt Disney's Sleeping Beauty.  

After visiting the Alcazar, we had some free time to roam through the streets of Segovia.  A few of us girls stopped into a cafe for a cup of coffee and just enjoyed the beautiful Autumn day.  Before heading home to Salamanca, we were taken a few kilometers outside of the city to Los Jardines de La Granja.  La Granja was a royal retreat set in the mountainside and is surrounded by charming gardens and alluring trails.  I could have spent the entire day in those gardens.  It was so calming to sit on the steps and take in the sheer beauty around me.  It was a wonderful Saturday.  My pictures from our day trip to Segovia are up on Facebook along with some new photos of Salamanca from this past week.  In other news, today Meredith and I will be getting some new roommates.  Two girls from England are coming to stay at Angelita and Fabi's home for about a week.  We're both excited to meet them.  Wednesday is a national holiday in Spain so almost everything will be closed, including the University of Salamanca.  Since we don't have classes, a few of us are hoping to go horseback riding in the countryside on Wednesday morning.  Then next weekend I will be in Toledo and Madrid.  There are so many things going on this month!  There is a theater in Salamanca that hosts ballet companies, concerts, and plays for the community at reasonable prices.  I really want to go to a concert showcasing orchestral music inspired by the poetry of Federico García Lorca at the end of October.  I'm trying to make the most of every day that I have here.  Time is moving so quickly.  I feel like it's because I have so many things to look forward to.  Whether it is something as simple as having ice cream with a friend or something as unbelievable as my trip to Morocco in November, I am always looking ahead.  Un abrazo.  I'll post again soon!            
     

Finally Fall!

I love Autumn.  I'm very jealous of the weather back home.  I want to eat a piece of banana bread, drink a pumpkin spice latte, and see the leaves change.  I want to meander through the corn maze at Jonamac Orchard, sip apple cider, and carve pumpkins.  I'm missing October in Illinois.  But today, Salamanca is perfect.  The crisp breeze, the slightly overcast sky, and the beauty of this place have appeased my need for Fall weather.  It is sublime.    

Food!

Last night I went out for tapas with some of my friends from AIFS.  Tapas are very small portions of food that you share with a group of people.  It is customary to buy one round of tapas at a bar and then move on to another bar for the next round.  Sharing tapas is a very social activity and an integral part of Spanish culture.  Salamanca is known for having some of the best tapas around.  Our program sponsors nights like this, along with cooking lessons, dancing lessons, and intercambios, to help us immerse into the Spanish culture.  Our Resident Director took us to two popular tapas bars and we got to pick out whatever we wanted.  It was delicious!  At the first bar, I tried a type of tortilla española that had bacon and blue cheese on it.  Tortilla española is similar to a quiche and is made with potatoes, onions, and eggs.  It is one of my favorites and Angelita said that she would teach me how to make it.  Then I'll be able to make it home and share it with all of you!  At the second bar, I had a tostada with olive loaf, fig jam, and fruit on it.  A tostada is the Spanish version of an Italian bruschetta.  Spaniards love to mix flavors, like fruit and meat.  I know that it sounds really strange.  But it is so good! 

As much fun as it was to go out for a meal last night, I don’t think I’ll do it very often because Angelita is such a good cook.  There hasn’t been a thing she has made that I haven’t enjoyed.  Yesterday while I was eating breakfast she was making almendras garapiñadas, which are candied almonds.  She also makes her own natural jams and sauces.  For breakfast I usually have two pieces of toast with some of this jam.  It’s so funny to me because at home I never put jam or jelly on toast.  I’ve tried so many different types of food here that I refuse to eat in the States…like bananas.  I love the bananas here.  But at home I never eat them.  I have mentioned before that dinner is a fairly small meal throughout Spain.  Every once in a while, Angelita makes us toast with melted cheese and honey for the last meal of the day.  She uses a cured Spanish cheese called “queso castellano” or “queso curado” and then pours natural honey on it.  It is heavenly.  I’m so glad that I came to Salamanca with an open mind about the food.  The gastronomy is as important as the history and customs when integrating into a new culture.  However, I already know what my first meal will be when I get home in December:  Grandma Erma's recipe for stove-top mac 'n' cheese and a bowl of Cinnamon Toast Crunch for dessert.  Yum!

En las calles de Salamanca…

I’m happy to say that the past few days have given me some relief from the stress and worry that I was experiencing earlier in the week.  I’ve been keeping busy with classes and spending a lot of time with my friends here.  On Tuesdays, I have class at 1:00 in the afternoon for two hours.  I love that walk to class and back home for lunch.  The streets of Salamanca are almost always congested with people who are out shopping or strolling with their families.  On my way to that class, Business Spanish, I weave in and out of groups of students in the Plaza Mayor.  I smell the bread and pastries baking in the numerous panaderías along the facade.  I hear beautiful noise.  Everyday around this time, a man stands on Calle Toro and plays his saxophone so soulfully.  That’s a tongue twister…saxophone so soulfully, saxophone so soulfully, saxophone so soulfully.  Try saying that three times fast!  Anyway, as I’ve said before, Salamanca is new every day.  Each day, each hour, each minute is different.  I suppose that’s true anywhere.  I think that sometimes it takes a change of scenery for us to realize how dynamic life is.  It is constantly changing.  It’s resplendent.  On my walk home from Business Spanish on Tuesdays, or Thursdays for that matter, the streets are deserted.  Everyone has returned home or is at a side street café for la comida.  I’m usually starving when I get home because it’s about a fifteen minute walk from my class and we normally eat at 2:30.  By the time I get to our apartment, Angelita, Meredith, and Fabi have usually finished eating.  So I eat with Begoña, their daughter, who comes to pick up her children.  The boys, Fernando and Antonio, go to school right across the street from our apartment and come over every day for lunch.  I love having the entire family around.  It gives Meredith and me a chance to practice our Spanish even more.  The grandkids get a little rambunctious but they are so much fun.  We love our Spanish family.  On Wednesday, I went to see a movie with some of my classmates.  Yami, Tristan, Amanda, Robin, and I saw “La Cara Oculta,” a psychological thriller, and I had popcorn for the first time since leaving home.  I love popcorn!  My folks and I munch on popcorn all of the time at home.  Sometimes it replaces dinner!  My friends and I had so much fun walking through the streets that night, talking about our classes, and seeing a truly great movie.  During the afternoon on Friday, I got together with my friends Julia and Laura for café con leche in the Plaza.  Inevitably, when meeting a friend in the Plaza, you end up finding four or five others.  The Plaza Mayor is the center of the city and life in Salamanca revolves around it.  Late on Friday night, I met up with two other friends for drinks at a bar near my apartment.  Rachel and Andrea actually live in the same building as me and Meredith.  I got to know some students from another study abroad program, ISA, and it turns out that a few of them are in my classes.  It was so nice to meet new people and the sangria was so refreshing.  It has been unseasonable warm in Salamanca.  We’re all hoping for it to cool off a little bit this upcoming week.  Last night, I went out chocolate fondue and churros with a big group of friends at the best place in town, Valor.  I also got some ice cream for the walk home.  Talk about a sugar high!  It was perfectly decadent and absolutely worth the calories. 

I love that we can get a diverse group of people together and enjoy each other’s company so much.  We all have such different backgrounds.  In our AIFS Salamanca group, there are students between the ages of eighteen and twenty-eight.  There are people from Hawaii, California, Alaska, Colorado, Texas, Minnesota, Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, New York, and probably a couple of other states that I’m forgetting.  But here we have all experienced the same anxiety, the same stress.  It’s comforting to have all of these people around me when I’m so far away from home.  Angelita and Fabi just got home from a long walk.  I don’t have much on my agenda for today.  I’m meeting up with the girls that are going with me to Prague in a couple of months.  And I think that I might go for a short run later in the afternoon.  This has been a very long blog post!  I sincerely hope that everyone is doing well back home, whether your home is in Illinois, Iowa, Texas, or anywhere else.  Hasta luego.

Contemplating...

Today I don't have class until the afternoon so I thought I would do a quick little blog post.  Yesterday was our first day of semester classes and it went so well.  I love my Phonetics professor and I think the class is going to be so enjoyable.  It'll get challenging, I know, but our first day was so much fun.  I felt like such a goof when he had us practice making Spanish vowels sounds!  We did a bunch of silly exercises to create the mouth shapes and sounds that are necessary when learning to speak Spanish.  I could not stop laughing!  That class, combined with seeing the pictures from my sweet little nephew's baptism, receiving a letter from a friend back home, watching "Aguila Roja" with my Spanish family, and getting some great news from my dad made for a wonderful Monday.  At the same time, I have been feeling a little homesick.  I guess that's normal after being away for almost a month.  Don't get me wrong...I am so happy here.  But there are some difficult circumstances, here but mostly at home, that I have had to deal with alone.  I wish more than anything that I could have my parents physically here to talk to.  I wish my best friend was here too, so that we could have each other to lean on.  I miss seeing movies with my group of girls in DeKalb.  I tend to think about these things when I'm just relaxing here at home or wandering through the city in the afternoon.  I keep myself busy by spending time with my friends in Salamanca.  On Sunday I went to El Rastro with a few other girls from my program.  El Rastro is Salamanca's flea market.  We had a good time and it kept my mind off of things.  And this weekend a group of us are thinking of going out for chocolate fondue.  I'm also looking forward to booking my trip to Prague very shortly.  I have so many exciting things going on but I'm not afraid to admit that I have been a little nostalgic and lonely lately.  My time here is going by so quickly.  Sooner that I can imagine, I will be home for Christmas.  I have been sitting in the kitchen this morning, watching Angelita cook.   I told her about being homesick and how much I wish I could just hug my folks.  It was as if we were sharing some sort of parallel experience.  She told me about how much she cried when her son, Javier, left to study in France for a year.  And I told her about how I didn't want to let go of my mom at O'Hare.  She told me about the girls she has had in her home and that it was difficult for every single one.  All the while, Angelita's eyes were tearing up from the onions she was chopping and mine were tearing up because I miss home.  Maybe Angelita was tearing up from all of the happy memories she has and maybe I was tearing up because she makes us feel so loved here.  Estoy tranquila ahora.  Muchisimos besos y abrazos.

A day in Avila...

Yesterday, I visited the pequeñita ciudad of Avila with my friends Julia, Vania, and Meredith.  In about seven hours we were able to see all of the most important sights and walk around the entire city.  It genuinely was an adorable little city.  Avila reminded me of a toned-down version of Salamanca.  Both cities are the epitome of old Spain but Avila is more quaint and less outstanding.  You won't find towering cathedrals or an impressive plaza there, but it was beautiful in its own way.  Avila is right in the middle of Salamanca and Madrid and takes about an hour and a half to reach by bus.  Not too bad for a day trip.  Angelita, my Spanish mom, told us that we had to try the "Yemas de Santa Teresa" while in Avila.  "Yema" translates to egg yolk...and that is precisely what these candies were.  Basically, it was candied egg yolk rolled in sugar.  Sounds tasty, right?  Wrong.  I'm glad that I tried it but one was more than enough.  It was very, very rich.  We girls saw the Avila Cathedral, the Basilica of San Vicente, and the Convent of Santa Teresa during our afternoon in this little city, which is surrounded on all sides by the Murallas.  The Murallas of Avila are splendid twelfth-century defensive walls and are among the best-preserved perimeters in the world.  The four of us walked atop these walls for a couple of hours.  The views were beautiful during the day and even more so after nightfall. 

I leaned against those walls, looking out across the landscape, and thought to myself, "I'm on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean, but I could be in Iowa right now."  When we were in Consuegra earlier in the week, I had a similar thought.  Farms and fields dominate the landscape of western and central Spain.  Sometimes I forget that we live so close to a city as big as Madrid, and that on the other side of the country the Barcelones probably haven't even gone to bed yet after a night of fiestas.  I am so happy to be living in Salamanca.  This city is a perfect fit for me.  But I do really miss being home every once in a while.  This semester is going by so quickly.  I am incredibly grateful that I get to come back in the Spring.  The regular semester begins on Monday for me so I might not have anything very exciting to write about for a little while.  I will keep everyone updated on daily life here, but for now we have a break from busy weekend excursions.  I'm excited for things to settle down.  New pictures are up on Facebook!  Besos y abrazos.                         

Granada

Third city:  Granada, my favorite city of the three we visited and the home of La Alhambra.  This city was magical and sultry.  We were there for less than twenty-four hours but I will never forget what I saw and experienced.  After arriving at our swanky hotel, we left almost immediately for a tour of La Alhambra.  This fortress was built on top of a hill known as La Sabika and the towering Sierra Nevada mountains form the backdrop.  It was truly amazing to witness this view.  Our professional tour guide took us through the sprawling pathways and gardens that wind throughout La Alhambra's complex and we were also able to see several of the most important rooms in the fortress.  The palace-fortress was actually abandoned during the Napoleonic occupation of the eighteenth-century and just barely escaped being destroyed.  That alone made me appreciate this building even more.  Words cannot do La Alhambra justice.  The intricately carved facades and delicate pillars looked as if they had come out of a fairy tale...too perfect to be real.  

     

After the tour of La Alhambra, everyone from our program returned to the hotel to rest.  We walked so much during this trip!  In the evening, we had the option to see a Flamenco show.  Only about fifteen people decided to go because of the extra cost.  But honestly, I would have spent twice as much to see what we were lucky enough to see.  We took our bus to the Sacromonte, Granada's centuries-old "gitano" quarter, located near the Albayzin neighborhood.  I don't even know how to describe the environment in which we watched the Flamenco dancers.  We drove through narrow and winding streets to the crest of a hill, on which were several bars and dimly lit rooms.  The room where the Flamenco dancers and singers performed was essentially a cave.  It was definitely not what I was expecting but I think our experience was better than if we had seen a performance in a theater or arena.  We walked into a long rectangular room of whitewashed walls and rustic lights with chairs lined up along the edges.  I want to mention quickly that Michelle Obama actually visited the exact Flamenco tablao that I am describing.  Her picture is hanging on the wall at the end of the room.  Pretty cool!  I should also apologize for the lack of pictures from the show.  I got a few photos of the dancers but it was so mesmerizing to watch that eventually I just put my camera away.  The dancers were literally right in front of us.  I could feel the breeze as their skirts twirled past me.  I could see the potent expressions on their faces so clearly.  I could feel the vibrations in the floor as they stomped their feet to the rhythm of the music.  And I could not stop smiling.  I can't stop smiling now, just remembering it.  

  

Believe it or not, I actually got up and danced with them!  A few of us were chosen from the audience to dance for a few moments with the beautiful Flamenco dancers.  It was so much fun!  I even got some compliments from mis amigas guapas, which means "my pretty girl friends," on my dancing.  In a word:  Unforgettable.  After the Flamenco show, we were given a tour of the Albayzin neighborhood.  I saw breathtaking views of La Alhambra at night from the edge of the cliff.  That evening was magical.  I wish we could have had another night in Granada.  Lucky for me, I get to go back next semester.  We spent the night in Granada and left in the morning to return to Salamanca.  Even though it was outside of the Granada province, I want to mention the windmills that we stopped to see in Consuegra.  These windmills were referenced in Don Quixote, the famous story by Miguel de Cervantes.  The protagonist of this story, Don Quixote himself, was ill and believed that these windmills were giants.  He battled these "giants," but unfortunately I can't remember who won.  On top of that hill, standing in the shadows of the windmills, I felt so at peace.  It was perfect...the quintessential Spanish landscape.  

                 

Seville

Second city:  Seville, home of the world's greatest Gothic cathedral, La Giralda tower, and the Alcazar complex.  I'm going to be honest right now.  My first impression of Seville was not that great.  We spent two nights in the capital city of Andalucia.  Our first night was fairly uneventful because there weren't any planned excursions until the following morning and our hotel was not near any major tourist attractions.  As a result, I wandered the streets with a few other students, not knowing exactly where we were.  If you know me at all, you know that I don't like that sort of thing.  I got very anxious and nervous because we were in the third largest city in Spain, a place none of us had ever been to before.  Thank goodness we had a second day in Seville.  Otherwise, I think I would have had an unfavorable impression of this city forever.  Our second day, however, was great.  In the morning we took a professional coach tour of the city, stopping at several places along the way.  Among these were the Plaza de España and the Alcazar complex.  

The Plaza de España, pictured above on the left, is incredibly large and grand.  We did not spend much time here but this plaza made a lasting impression.  The same can be said for the Alcazar complex, pictured above on the right.  As we walked through its tropical gardens, I felt like I couldn't possibly still be in Spain.  It was so different than the region we live in.  Much of the Alcazar is in the Mudejar style, similar to La Mezquita of Cordoba and La Alhambra of Granada.  The Alcazar is the oldest royal palace still in use today.  More than anything else, I wanted to climb La Giralda tower while we were in Seville.  After lunch and a short siesta, Meredith and I, along with our friend Cary, walked back to the cathedral.  La Giralda is the original minaret of the mosque that once stood on the site of the present-day Gothic cathedral.  It is considered Spain's most perfect Islamic building.  Atop La Giralda is El Giraldillo, a sixteenth-century weathervane, which represents Faith and is the symbol of Seville.  

While the cathedral itself was breathtaking, the views from the top of this Islamic tower were unforgettable and definitely worth the climb.  Our second day in Seville, September 18th, was also our good friend Tristan's birthday.  So that night we went out for pizza and drinks at a restaurant along the Guadalquivir River.  We got some ice cream on our walk home and it was truly one of the best nights I've had in Spain.  Good food and good company make for a great night.  It was so nice to spend that time with a group of friends that I've grown to care about.  On to Granada!